I guess there’s some automatic vram paging going on. How many tokens per second do you get while generating?

Had several issues when upgrading to 41, so I only upgraded to 42 a month or two ago in order to give them time to iron out the bugs first…

Still are, but I guess a lot of people don’t know much about them

Filament not sticking to itself sounds pretty unusual… Found this review on youtube. The channel has 6 subscribers and I have no idea if it’s legit or disguised marketing, but all the comments mention similar problems as yours. There’s also this review, with more negative comments. One person says they managed to get good prints by raising the print temp even more, but don’t do that if you have a PTFE lined hotend. I.e. only try higher temps if you know for sure that you have an all metal hotend.

I’m not up to date on hardware, so I’ll refrain from recommending specific components. I went with AMD Ryzen CPU and Nvidia GPU (using closed source driver) last time I upgraded my PC and it usually works fine, though I know many recommend AMD GPUs nowadays for Linux. If €1000 is your total budget, it might be worth considering a second hand GPU. For example a used RTX 3080 goes for around €300 and they are still quite capable, though someone else will have to say if that’s enough for the flight sims.

One thing you might want to look up is if the game uses hardware raytracing, and if that works on Linux. Out of the games I play, World of Warships looks worse for me than what I see on youtube, despite that I have set all graphics settings to max. Maybe it’s possible to fix by configuring Wine/Proton/DXVK etc. I haven’t really looked into it, but just so you’re aware of potential issues.

I used this list for help when choosing a power supply, but I think that becomes more important if you buy a high end GPU.

I use Steam for almost all my gaming, and it makes running (most) Windows games a breeze.

So far that has never happened because I’m not using that much storage :) But I shut it down when I need to turn off the mains electricity, and for powering it on afterwards the fake wall can be lifted off. It’s just the area underneath the desk so the panel might be smaller than it sounds like, and it hangs on some hooks so it’s fairly easy to remove if you know what you’re doing. Painted in the same colour as the wall, and with some some random junk on the floor in front, it blends in quite well though. I think the risk of burglary is fairly low, so it’s primarily to soothe my own paranoia.

I mounted mine on the wall under a desk in a room with no other electronics, and then put up a fake wall in front of the server. It can draw in air from the sides, and exhaust upwards behind the desk. But the only real solution is offsite backup, which will also protect against fire and other disasters.

Maybe something is wrong with the script generating these test prints, if you don’t have any similar problems with normal prints?

In addition to the blobs in the middle of the circles, I think it looks overextruded/blobby every time it changes direction. E.g. if you look at the -20 sample, it looks generally underextruded as one would expect. Though it’s also blobby around the edges, where the lines make a U-turn. Since the printer usually slows down at turns (unless your acceleration is set insanely high) this could be an indication that you’re exceeding your hotends melting capacity, i.e. either temp is too low or speed is too high, so it would be interesting to know what you calibrated those values to. I don’t think this is usually associated with random blobbing in the middle of the print, but could be worth checking just in case.

If you have a PTFE lined hotend, this kind of blobbing can also be caused by bowden gap IIRC. Might be easier to provide suggestions and ideas if you added some information about what printer you have, what filament it is, and what your other slicer settings are.

If you specify a budget then people might be able to give some recommendations, if you like.

As for aesthetics, Fractal Design offer a few cases which look really nice, if you like the Scandinavian design style. The overview shows all cases with glass or mesh sides, but there’s usually an option to get an opaque door if you don’t want LEDs from the electronics shining through

DRM filament spools has already been a thing, XYZprinting tried it but luckily it didn’t catch on and they went bankrupt a few years ago.

Paper GTK theme is a little bit similar, though with more vibrant colours ofc.

Official repo says $114 per arm, but I didn’t check their math :) https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot